Provence’s Almond Revival: How French Makers Are Reclaiming a Century-Old Craft

Provence’s Almond Revival: Tradition, Taste and Sustainability

The sweet aroma of marzipan drifts through a century-old workshop in southern France as confectioners prepare calissons — the delicate Provençal candy of candied melon and crushed almonds. Across Provence, growers and makers are reviving an old regional specialty by increasingly using locally grown almonds in high-end sweets and nougat.

From Near Collapse to Careful Replanting

Provence, whose almond blossoms once inspired artists such as Vincent van Gogh, was a major almond region until a sudden, devastating frost in 1956 wiped out orchards overnight. Production dwindled for decades. In the past ten years, however, producers and entrepreneurs have pushed to rebuild domestic almond cultivation and reconnect the confectionery tradition with locally sourced nuts introduced in Provence under King René in the 15th century.

Local Quality, Premium Positioning

Le Roy René, based in Aix-en-Provence, now uses roughly 50 tonnes of Provence-grown almonds each year for calissons and nougat. "I bet — even without being Pierre Hermé — that if you taste an American almond and then a Provence-grown almond, you'll notice the difference in flavour immediately," says Alexis Bertucat, the company's communications director. Producers stress that local almonds, tended with low-impact care and attention to soil health, deliver a distinctive taste and a premium story that appeals to discerning customers.

Environment And Scale: A Trade-Off

France today has more than 2,700 hectares of almond trees, producing roughly 1,200 tonnes of shelled almonds a year — a modest output compared with the approximately 50,000 tonnes of almonds imported annually. Entrepreneurs say domestic production will grow but will remain small relative to global supply without a major expansion of plantings; one producer estimated about 50,000 hectares would be needed to meet national demand.

Producers emphasize environmental benefits: buying nearby reduces transport-related emissions, and many French orchards use conservation-minded practices. As François Moulias, co-founder of La Compagnie des Amandes, notes, farms in southern France aim for "more virtuous agricultural practices" and, by his estimate, use "five times less water" than typical Californian operations — a selling point in a water-sensitive era.

New Investment And Niche Markets

Since 2014, after Olivier Baussan of L'Occitane acquired Le Roy René, the company shifted from importing nuts to supporting a local supply chain. In 2018, Moulias and former minister Arnaud Montebourg launched La Compagnie des Amandes to help farmers plant groves; the company now cultivates about 230 hectares in southern France and opened a processing plant in October to serve pastry houses such as Ladurée, retailers and even the cosmetics industry.

Small-scale farmers are also returning to almonds. Fabien Dauphin, a cherry grower whose great-grandfather tended almonds before 1956, now manages 22 hectares in Cucuron and says almonds account for roughly half his income thanks to direct online and market sales. Producers acknowledge the market remains niche and typically attracts higher-income buyers, but many see growth potential through quality, traceability and environmental messaging.

Bottom line: French almond producers are rebuilding a regional tradition by prioritizing flavor, sustainability and local supply chains — trading mass-market yields for quality, terroir and a lower-carbon story.