Why 'Microfiber Pollution' Should Be Rebranded as 'Fiber Fragmentation' — and What That Means for Fashion

Why the Name Matters

Microfiber pollution has long been the shorthand for the millions of tiny textile fragments that escape into air, water and soil. The term stuck after early studies focused on polyester fleece, which linked shed fibers to the broader microplastic problem. But researchers and industry leaders now argue the label is too narrow: natural fibers shed too, and chemical treatments can make otherwise biodegradable materials persistent pollutants. That semantic shift has practical consequences for measurement, regulation and mitigation.

The science so far

A 2019 University of Cape Town study that analyzed 2,000 microfibers collected from oceans worldwide found that only about 8% were plastic; the rest were plant- or animal-based fibers such as cotton, wool, hemp and linen. Meanwhile, The Microfibre Consortium (TMC) has tested roughly 1,800 fabric constructions with a standardized method, creating the largest global dataset on fiber shedding to date. Those results show that shedding depends on many variables beyond fiber type: polymer extrusion, dyeing temperature, thread density, bonding, finishing and even subtle process changes all influence fragmentation.

'We are fiber-shedding machines,' said Kelly Sheridan, CEO of TMC, emphasizing that textiles fragment constantly — during wear, production and laundering — and that the fabric itself must be the starting point for solutions.

What the industry is learning

Patterns have emerged: woven fabrics typically shed less than knits; warp knits tend to be more stable than weft knits; and filament yarns usually hold together better than staple yarns, although improved staple length and twist can reduce loss. Still, the enormous variety of textiles and production methods leaves many knowledge gaps. TMC asks manufacturers to provide roughly 50 specification details with each fabric test, underlining the complexity of the problem.

Brands that tried to go it alone found limits to unilateral action. Adidas conducted an in-house washing-based study in 2017 and found the results inconclusive, prompting the company to join collaborative efforts such as TMC and a ZDHC pilot that explored using total suspended solids (TSS) in wastewater as a proxy for fiber release. Kering has incorporated fiber fragmentation into its water stewardship strategy and in 2021 purchased PlanetCare filters for pilot installations that can capture about 90% of shed strands in wet processing.

From assumptions to evidence

Joint industry research is challenging assumptions. Christian Tubito of Kering’s Material Innovation Lab said he had assumed brushing phases released the most fragments, but trials revealed that main dyeing processes can be a major source of release. To move beyond intuition, TMC and partners including Fashion for Good and several global brands are focusing on archetypes — cotton knit, cotton woven and polyester knit — to identify which variables drive shedding and by how much.

Where to act now

Experts urge coordinated, evidence-based action rather than piecemeal fixes that could produce unintended harms. For example, applying more coatings to reduce shedding might reduce biodegradability or create new chemical problems. Practical steps for brands include:

• Mapping where fiber fragmentation fits in sustainability strategy (water stewardship, circularity, biodiversity, occupational health).
• Using standardized test methods and contributing to shared databases (TMC provides free reports and guidance).
• Piloting wastewater and filtration solutions to capture fragments at source while collecting operational data.
• Collaborating across suppliers, brands and regulators to align terminology, indicators and best practices.

Scale and policy

Pre-consumer shedding is also significant: a 2021 Nature Conservancy and Bain report estimated about 0.12 million metric tons of synthetic fiber fragments are generated during manufacturing and materials processing — a scale similar to consumer-stage laundering losses. As regulators in Europe and elsewhere consider greener product rules, industry leaders warn it is too soon to mandate specific indicators without robust science; premature regulation could steer the market toward solutions that optimize the wrong outcomes.

Conclusion

Changing the term from 'microfiber pollution' to 'fiber fragmentation' clarifies that shedding is a broad, material-agnostic process with multiple pathways and consequences. Clear language, shared data and collective action will be essential to design effective interventions that reduce environmental leakage without creating new problems. As Tubito put it, alignment on words and measurements matters because it shapes operational choices — for example, whether contaminated water can be reused — and ultimately how the industry responds.