Nirmal Purja, the 43-year-old Nepalese climber known for his 2019 record of summiting all 14 peaks above 8,000 meters, has been confirmed among 10 people killed after an avalanche on Broad Peak in Pakistan. Rescuers located his body but have not yet recovered it because repeated avalanches and unstable slopes make retrieval dangerous. Veteran rescuer Sirbaz Khan said helicopters, drones and local volunteers are involved, and a long-line helicopter operation may be required. Recovery and search efforts continue amid ongoing avalanche risk.
Nirmal Purja Confirmed Dead Among 10 Killed in Broad Peak Avalanche; Rescue Efforts Continue
Rescuers have located the body of famed Nepalese climber Nirmal Purja who died after an avalanche struck his expedition in Pakistan last week. - Nirmal Purja/PA Wire/AP
Rescuers have located the body of celebrated Nepalese climber Nirmal Purja, who was among 10 people killed after an avalanche struck an expedition on Broad Peak (8,047 m) in Pakistan's Karakoram range last week. Pakistani authorities have confirmed all 10 expedition members died in the disaster, and recovery operations remain perilous.
Nirmal Purja, a world-famous mountaineer who pledged to spotlight Nepal's Sherpa community, was confirmed killed on Saturday after a deadly avalanche in Pakistan. - Prabin Ranabhat/Pacific Press/Sipa USA/AP
Rescue Operation Under Extremely Dangerous Conditions
The Alpine Club of Pakistan said Purja's body has been found but not yet recovered to base camp because repeated avalanches and unstable slopes make retrieval hazardous. Veteran rescuer Sirbaz Khan, who has summited all 14 eight-thousanders without supplemental oxygen and is on his 20th Broad Peak expedition, described the search as treacherous. "The conditions are very dangerous," Khan told CNN, saying two or three avalanches had come down each day while teams searched. He added that at one point a body was swept away by snow.
Mourners and students light candles to offer their condolences after the death of mountaineer Nirmal Purja and his companions in an avalanche in Pakistan, at Small Heaven School in Chitwan on August 2, 2026. - Prakash Mathema/AFP/Getty Images
Teams are using helicopters, drones and mountain crews to access the site. Khan and other rescuers said a "long-line" helicopter operation — lowering rescuers by rope without landing — may be the safest option to retrieve the remaining bodies. Local volunteers have supported the base camp, providing food and assistance to rescue teams.
Mourners and students light candles to offer their condolences after the death of mountaineer Nirmal Purja and his companions in an avalanche in Pakistan, at Small Heaven School in Chitwan on August 2, 2026. - Prakash Mathema/AFP/Getty Images
Victims Named
At least five victims have been publicly identified so far:
Nirmal Purja, who became the fastest person to summit the world's 14 highest mountains, gestures upon his arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu, Nepal, October 30, 2019. - Navesh Chitrakar/Reuters
- Nirmal Purja (Nepal) — 43, world-renowned climber and former British Army soldier, founder of the Nimsdai Foundation.
- Nadhira Al Harthy (Oman) — Omani mountaineer known for encouraging Muslim women to pursue endurance sports.
- Pur Bahadur Gurung "Yukta" (Nepal) — Nepali climber.
- Sarah Mallory Geis (United States) — US climber.
- Nima Sherpa — Named by Purja's foundation; the post did not list nationality, though the surname commonly indicates Nepali Sherpa lineage.
About Broad Peak and the Karakoram
The Karakoram, on the western edge of the Himalaya, is notorious for unpredictable weather, rockfalls and avalanches. It contains four of the world's so-called eight-thousanders and a short summer climbing season. Broad Peak sits near K2, the world's second-highest mountain (8,611 m / 28,251 ft). Local climbers and photographers warn the optimal window for summit attempts is narrow and that conditions outside that window significantly raise risk.
Nirmal Purja's Legacy
Purja rose to global prominence after a record-breaking 2019 season in which he climbed all 14 peaks above 8,000 meters in just over six months. He used his platform to highlight the skill and sacrifices of Nepal's Sherpa community and founded the Nimsdai Foundation in 2022 to support climbing-related causes. An Instagram post from the foundation said: "His legacy will live on in the countless lives he changed and the people he inspired to climb their own mountains."
Ongoing Recovery and Community Response
Search and recovery operations remain active but are frequently paused or scaled back when weather and avalanche risk spike. Colleagues, sherpa teams and local volunteers continue to assist at base camp. The international climbing community has expressed deep grief and paid tribute to the victims' courage and achievements.
"We are doing our best and we also don't want to lose more lives in the process," a member of the rescue effort said, underscoring the balance between urgency and safety.
Recovery efforts continue amid warnings that additional avalanches could hamstring operations.
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