Researchers at the Chinese Academy of Sciences grew a living textile from the fungus Cordyceps militaris, forming sheets of interwoven hyphae that were made into a dress. The material is denser than cotton, can be coloured or given UV protection by adding other microbes, and can self‑repair when wet fungal pellets are applied. It biodegrades almost completely in soil after roughly 40 days, offering sustainability benefits but presenting durability challenges. The garment remains a proof of concept as researchers work on safety, durability and programmable responses.
Living, Self‑Repairing Clothes: Scientists Grow a Dress From Cordyceps Fungus
Scientists turned Cordyceps militaris fungus into a living textile that can repair itself when damaged | ©Image Credit: Facebook / Fashion Business Journal
Scientists at the Chinese Academy of Sciences have grown a living textile from Cordyceps militaris—a fungus related to the one that inspired the fictional outbreak in The Last of Us—and fashioned it into a dress. The material is made from interwoven fungal hyphae, can be functionalised with other microbes for colour or UV protection, and can potentially repair itself when reactivated with moisture and nutrients.
How the Textile Is Made
Led by Ke Li, the team cultivated the fungus as tiny spherical pellets in liquid culture. After washing the pellets, they packed them into moulds where the fungal filaments (hyphae) interwove to form continuous sheets. Because the hyphal network forms the structural framework, no traditional fibers, plastic mesh, or external scaffold is required—the fungus effectively builds the material itself.
Material Properties
According to the researchers, the finished textile is denser and less fibrous than cotton and feels more like a soft, non‑woven sheet. Fresh samples may carry a faint biological or fermentation‑like scent, but washing, drying, and further processing reduce this odour substantially. Importantly, Cordyceps militaris does not infect humans and poses no risk of creating "mushroom monsters."
Functionalisation With Other Microbes
The team demonstrated that the living fabric can be modified by introducing other microorganisms. For colour, they added engineered yeast strains that produce orange, blue, or purple pigments. To add ultraviolet protection, they used Aspergillus niger, which forms a dark, melanin‑rich layer capable of absorbing UV radiation. These examples show how biological additives can give the textile new capabilities.
Self‑Repair and Lifecycle
One striking feature is the material's capacity for repair. If the sheet is damaged, researchers can apply fresh, wet fungal pellets to the breach; when provided with humidity and nutrients the living material can grow across the gap and reconstitute the fabric. When dry, biological activity largely ceases and cells become dormant—reactivation requires moisture and nutrients.
Biodegradability and Trade‑Offs
The fungal textile degraded almost completely in soil after just over 40 days in the researchers' tests. That rapid biodegradation could help address fast‑fashion waste, but it also raises an obvious challenge: a material that breaks down easily is desirable for end‑of‑life disposal but problematic if degradation begins during normal wear. Balancing durability with biodegradability will be a key engineering hurdle.
The Dress and Future Directions
The team fashioned the material into a small dress for display, but it has not yet been worn; Li described it as a precious exhibit and suggested that "petite and adventurous volunteers" might try it in future trials. Researchers envision programming living textiles to change properties in response to environmental cues—for example, becoming more water‑repellent in rain and more breathable when dry—an idea made more plausible as wearable technologies advance.
Takeaway: The project demonstrates a promising proof of concept for living, repairable, and highly biodegradable textiles, but significant work remains to ensure safety, durability, and practical performance for everyday use.
Source: New Scientist (reported on GEEKSPIN)
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