Durian Diplomacy: Why Southeast Asia’s Fruit Feud Misses the Bigger Picture

The durian — a spiky, famously pungent fruit often called the “king of tropical fruits” — has become the unexpected center of a regional dispute in Southeast Asia. What began as a proposal to recognize the fruit officially in one country quickly touched nerves across borders, revealing how food, identity and commerce intersect in a region shaped by centuries of exchange.

Malaysia’s proposal and Indonesia’s response

On Sept. 8, Malaysia’s Durian Manufacturers Association (DMA) asked the government to declare durian the country’s national fruit and to designate July 7 as National Durian Day, celebrated with festivals, exhibitions and farm visits. "Durian is not just another fruit. It’s part of our national identity," said Eric Chan, DMA president. "Every Malaysian, no matter their background, has a durian story — a memory, a tradition."

The proposal prompted pushback across the region. Indonesia’s Coordinating Minister for Food Affairs, Zulkifli Hasan (commonly called Zulhas), argued that Indonesia has a stronger claim because of its higher production levels, saying, "I believe durian is Indonesia’s national fruit." Indonesia’s statistical agency reported nearly 2 million metric tonnes of durian production last year. Malaysia’s government data lists roughly 592,000 metric tonnes for 2023.

Commercial stakes and local disputes

Beyond symbolism, the designation could carry commercial and policy implications. Malaysia’s premium Musang King variety — cultivated mainly in Pahang, Kelantan and Johor — holds geographical indication protection in Malaysia, which helps safeguard its name and reputation on international markets. Greater official recognition could increase support for farmers and strengthen export branding.

That support matters. In Pahang, some growers say they were informally allowed to cultivate state land decades ago under a plan to boost rural food production. This year, state enforcement actions included cutting down long-standing durian trees and issuing eviction notices — moves farmers contest. National recognition could influence how such disputes are handled and how support is allocated.

Food, identity and shared histories

Scholars caution that claims of exclusive ownership over foods like durian overlook historical realities. The fruit grows throughout the Malay Archipelago and figures in the shared cultural world known as the Nusantara. Linguist and food scholar Khir Johari notes the Malay origin of the word — from duri, meaning thorn — pointing to a shared linguistic and cultural landscape that predates modern borders.

Historians and cultural scholars emphasize that migration, trade and intermarriage carried recipes and ingredients across islands and coasts long before modern nation-states formed. Colonial-era treaties and later political changes changed the map, but culinary traditions remained interwoven across present-day countries.

From rivalry to cooperation

Food disputes are often inflamed when tied to international recognition, rankings, tourism and trade. Yet cooperative approaches offer constructive alternatives. Recent joint UNESCO nominations in the region — such as a successful joint inscription for a Malayic oral poetic form and a shared nomination for a traditional garment — demonstrate how neighboring countries can recognize common heritage rather than contest it.

Experts suggest that framing durian as a shared regional treasure rather than a point of national ownership could preserve cultural connections while allowing individual countries to promote distinctive products, like Musang King, under appropriate protections.

Ultimately, the durian debate is less about botanical ownership and more about how nations tell their stories. In a region defined by centuries of exchange, shared recognition and cooperative branding may better reflect reality than unilateral claims.